tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3252341255542272869.post4068146967885116956..comments2023-09-22T22:59:06.032-07:00Comments on A Barge in the Making: Those Who Live in Glass HousesDave Zhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13241033623115158564noreply@blogger.comBlogger2125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3252341255542272869.post-420263861048928082013-11-25T00:16:13.831-08:002013-11-25T00:16:13.831-08:00Hi John,
RE Insulation -- We double-pane them. In...Hi John,<br /><br />RE Insulation -- We double-pane them. In SLACKTIDE, we used 1/4in polycarbonate outboard, and 1/8in acrylic, inboard. Her SIP construction means the gap between is 2 1/8in (0-2-1). Outboard is bedded in a "siliconized acrylic latex caulk" (DAP), and inside is mounted on 1/4in weatherstrip. The result is great insulation, even at the windows.<br /><br />I've heard from friends with as little as 1/4in gap between panes that a little bit goes a long way.<br /><br />RE Window Strength -- Polycarbonate is amazingly strong stuff, from which they make safety glasses and security panes. By the time you get up to 3/8in and thicker polyC, you're starting to get crazy strong (not to mention expensive!)... so one can ramp up to whatever level of paranoia seems right.<br /><br />We haven't taken a green wave on the windows in 6 years (two winters sailing in that time), so can't directly attest to their strength, but I feel confident. They're mounted strongly, overlapping the cutouts, and are supported by 2x2 posts that break the expanse up into 2ftx2ft- squares.<br /><br />That being said, if one were heading offshore, I'd consider ply shutters bolted outside to double/reduce the openings.<br /><br />In terms of docking, we come in with fenders forward and aft of the windows. In most cases, the guards would impact the dock well before the hull sides/windows. They give me a lot more concern, but have never been a problem. If things are too tight or wooly, we wait or warp in under full control.<br /><br />In STANDARDS at 1ft draft, the windows are 3ft+ above the WL, and 2 1/2ft+ in the FANCIES. That's about equivalent to most boats in their length that have hull mounted windows.<br /><br />So, warm, safe and pretty much out of harm's way!<br /><br />DaveDave Zhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/13241033623115158564noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3252341255542272869.post-36070942802283408962013-11-24T23:54:07.714-08:002013-11-24T23:54:07.714-08:00(Posted on behalf of JOHN):
Hello Dave,
I´ve lon...(Posted on behalf of JOHN):<br /><br />Hello Dave,<br /><br />I´ve long noted the expanse of windows in your triloboats. I can understand their appeal to you in the highly scenic waters you sail in, and I assume you seldom have to worry about solar over-heating in SE Alaska. But I wonder about two things.<br /><br />After you built LUNA you mentioned wishing that you had insulated her. Does having large expanses of windows in your Triloboats result in a poorly-insulated hull, even though the other parts of the hull are well-insulated? Maybe you don´t need all that much insulation in the spring-summer-autumn cruising season, and maybe you aren´t cruising that much now in the winter?<br /><br />I also wondered about the strength of such large expanses of glazing, especially so low to the water? <br />Do you have any concerns with those huge windows breaking, either when docking (I know, seldom happens), or if hit with a large breaking wave? I seems to me that if you ever did have a problem in gnarly conditions things could get really bad, really quickly.<br /><br />JohnDave Zhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/13241033623115158564noreply@blogger.com