tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3252341255542272869.post6421096770492606070..comments2023-09-22T22:59:06.032-07:00Comments on A Barge in the Making: Interior Ready for PaintDave Zhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13241033623115158564noreply@blogger.comBlogger11125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3252341255542272869.post-18310818660221298772015-01-07T10:38:28.803-08:002015-01-07T10:38:28.803-08:00Possible idea for your forward bunk, and one that ...Possible idea for your forward bunk, and one that is questionable for structural strength reasons. For the forward end of the settee, place a pole in a socket at the intersection of the inboard end of the settee and the bunk, with a removable fastener up at the crossbeam (holes in the crossbeam and lashing?) Fasten a net to brace pillows on over to the leanback. Now the questionable one, if the bulkhead that forms the dinette leanback was modified so the leanback was removable, and a similar removable pole was placed on that side as well, then when you want a large flat space the dinette could be dropped, and the leanback removed and the poles removed, giving more square footage for projects. Would that modification weaken the bulkhead too much? Dennis Dhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04525900170454935174noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3252341255542272869.post-7571474035136119972014-12-01T19:03:09.274-08:002014-12-01T19:03:09.274-08:00We plan to kerf it, but that's our second choi...We plan to kerf it, but that's our second choice. Just the upper blade, and as little as possible... maybe leave 1/4in clear of the lower blade?<br /><br />SLACKTIDE's were a bit heavier (long, sad story), which we prefer. A local machine shop bent them perfectly to match the bottom curve from the template we supplied (offcut from the hull plywood).<br /><br />Caution: Supposedly, they were architectural bronze, which the suppliers say is brittle and can't be curved. Our machinists said no problem and walked the walk. So??<br /><br />Dave Z<br />Dave Zhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/13241033623115158564noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3252341255542272869.post-19224160725849299892014-12-01T18:43:31.658-08:002014-12-01T18:43:31.658-08:00We lean the backrests about 3in in 18in. This is a...We lean the backrests about 3in in 18in. This is about a standard kitchen chair. They're about as comfortable as an average kitchen chair with no cushions, and much more so with. <br /><br />On Luna, an evening of sitting around with guests was quite comfortable (no cushions, but thick carpet seats). If we're lounging around, though (long term reading, say) the bunk is much more comfortable.<br /><br />I've been trying to figure out a removable 'arm' for the fwd, bunk end of the settee. That would allow us to lounge much more comfortably on it than mere pillows. Not easy, though... might try those fold-out seat/backrest deals... they work great, but are kind of bulky for a single purpose item.<br /><br />Dave ZDave Zhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/13241033623115158564noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3252341255542272869.post-90372352074328656382014-12-01T08:15:52.999-08:002014-12-01T08:15:52.999-08:00Another question, that actually belongs to a much ...Another question, that actually belongs to a much older post, is about the angle iron (bronze) on the outboard bottom edge of the boat. How do you get it to curve up ends? Is it flexible enough to be forced, or do you need to kerf it?Dennis Dhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04525900170454935174noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3252341255542272869.post-76176711947442157192014-11-30T11:47:30.773-08:002014-11-30T11:47:30.773-08:00A question about your dinette seating, will the cu...A question about your dinette seating, will the cushions supply some lean back, or is it to be left at 90 degrees? If so, how comfertable is it to sit at for longer periods? Dennis Dhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04525900170454935174noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3252341255542272869.post-41620970748416335312014-11-20T09:57:13.152-08:002014-11-20T09:57:13.152-08:00Hi Dennis,
The companionway is centered and the m...Hi Dennis,<br /><br />The companionway is centered and the mizzen offset.<br /><br />This aligns the companionway with the mid-ships, galley gangway. More importantly, in a beam ends knock-down (full 90degs over), the opening should remain clear of the water. It's port and s'brd edges (one of which will be the lower edge in a knock-down) are inset 3ft from the sides. Side draft will be more than upright draft, but should be well under 3ft (though I haven't calculated for this boat).<br /><br />The Chinese and Bolger often used offset mizzens, and we tried it out on SLACKTIDE. Not sure if it gives up efficiency, but seems negligible for cruising. It only needs to be far enough over to clear the companion hatch coamings (starting about 1ft6in off centerline). ST's is a little further, as it's integrated with the PH side walls. This boat has a wider PH, so we'll keep it further inbrd.<br /><br />In this boat, we're going to set the junk (lug) mizzen sail on the inbrd side. Junk sails are naturally offset by half the combined diameter of mast plus boom/yard. By setting inbrd, we reduce the <i>sail's</i> offset.<br /><br />We once joined a small sailing jaunt with a bunch of Bolger boats and a few others. The one sailing circles around all of us was a Bolger BRICK! Square boat with single mast mounted on one side of the hull!! Sailed great.<br /><br />When wind is from the mast side (more hull to leeward) the added buoyancy and lever arm of the extra hull resist heeling moment. <br /><br />From the other side, with REDUCED hull to windward and therefore less resistance to heel, that at first seems iffy. We were at first concerned that we could knock down easier on that tack. But no sign of that, in practice.<br /><br />My hypothesis is that the extra hull to windward, in this case, acts similar to a proa with windward ama, which in turn is similar to someone hiking out to windward. That additional weight (again on a longer lever arm than half beam provides) counters heeling moment.<br /><br />The combined result is nearly the same 'feel' on either tack. I'm sure there's a difference, but again, negligible.<br /><br />Probably more than you were looking for... please ignore any TMI! 8)<br /><br />Dave ZDave Zhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/13241033623115158564noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3252341255542272869.post-60850324026905882632014-11-20T08:34:07.701-08:002014-11-20T08:34:07.701-08:00Another question, is the companonway access offset...Another question, is the companonway access offset to accomate the mizzen mast, or is it centered and the mast way off center?Dennis Dhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04525900170454935174noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3252341255542272869.post-42272981576514688352014-11-16T12:01:50.465-08:002014-11-16T12:01:50.465-08:00Hi Dennis,
Thanks! Pretty rough, by yacht standar...Hi Dennis,<br /><br />Thanks! Pretty rough, by yacht standards, but we're shooting for a touch above 'outlaw cabin' finish.<br /><br />The boat stands a skosh higher than 8ft tall, depending on pilothouse hatch and coaming arrangement. That's our 2in bottom + 5ft sides + 2ft PH sides + about 9in of crown + hatch coamings with hatches on top. If the sides are lower (4ft6in to 5ft seem about the practical range) that will drop the total height accordingly.<br /><br />That's the LUNA style... the STANDARDs run about 6ft8in... higher sides but generally no PH.<br /><br />Construction height adds (I'd say) a minimum of 4ft over the mid-deck. Can probably get away with 2ft over the pilothouse, since it's all arm's reach from its perimeter. But tight!<br /><br />In your case, an option might be to finish up to the sheer (don't paint top edges of sheer or bulkheads) and end-decks. Then wait for a weather window, haul it outside and finish the PH deck. The mid-deck could go either way, depending on the season and your tolerance for funky, temporary cover (tarps over a ridge pole, at a minimum). Decks go surprisingly quickly, so it's not a big exposure.<br /><br />Some barn ceilings can be split down the middle, making two longitudinal lofts running along each side. The center can be planked over (car-deck T&G) for special needs. Then they resemble a traditional boat shop, with space down the middle for plenty of access. We saw a boat built in one of these, where, for building decks and superstructure, the blocked the boat way up so decks were level with the upper floors! Made everything easy.<br /><br />A last thought... if you build half indoors (fwd face of PH near the outer face of the doorway) with a temporary structure over the back half of the boat, tacked to the building face. That would split advantages (and DISadvantages!), and clear more indoor shop space.<br /><br />Any way you cut it, we're jealous!<br /><br />Dave ZDave Zhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/13241033623115158564noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3252341255542272869.post-83691074070451374872014-11-16T11:59:38.010-08:002014-11-16T11:59:38.010-08:00Hi Again,
You're right, that's a little l...Hi Again,<br /><br />You're right, that's a little lid that pulls inboard... it cuts across the top and face for better access past the stove than either alone would afford.<br /><br />We can mostly reach to near enough the back of the box for bringing wood forward. But we keep our crowbar alongside, and if it's too far for comfort, rake it with that. Wood falls down the L by gravity. Occasionally, it will hang up and we poke it by hand or with the crowbar from top.<br /><br />The entire top flips up, at this point. On LUNA, we built a drying rack at the forward end, and reduced the flip up portion, accordingly. Will likely do that again, down the road. Stainless steel perforated plate (sold for sifting gravel aggregates in many sized hole patterns) works great for drying trays, BTW. They come in 3 or 4ft x 8ft sheets, which can be cut up as desired.<br /><br />Hopefully, I'll finish the book next winter... Design and Construction are pretty much finished... this project is finally providing some good documentation for the Case Study.<br /><br />Dave ZDave Zhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/13241033623115158564noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3252341255542272869.post-73630487539444163432014-11-16T09:07:07.835-08:002014-11-16T09:07:07.835-08:00Do you have any more details on the wood box? I se...Do you have any more details on the wood box? I see seams under the stove, so assume it is some sort of door. How do you get the wood at the back of the "L" to come forward? Is it sloped or do you use some sort of hook to pull it forward? I assume the entire top of the opens to load? PS, once you get all this information collected into a book or e-book,, I would like to be on the pre-order list.Dennis Dhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04525900170454935174noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3252341255542272869.post-61687257079863693322014-11-16T08:58:35.544-08:002014-11-16T08:58:35.544-08:00Looks like a fantastic job! I appreciate the photo...Looks like a fantastic job! I appreciate the photos, as it helps my wife visualize what I want to build. Do you know off hand what the overall height and the construction height required? I am looking at modifying my old barn (which has 8' ceilings). I realized that I need to rebuild the garage door wall (was bumped with a tractor one day) and decided it can wait until after I need to remove said boat (repair requires removing 8'high by 12' long wall section anyways) If need be, I can dig out some of the dirt floor for more height, but don't want to dig more than necessary. Dennis Dhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04525900170454935174noreply@blogger.com