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| Overview from forward |
Interior Ready for Paint
Our latest strategy was to finish up the interior and get some paint on to hold our gains against encroaching winter. Well... the interior's complete - barring a few deets that can wait for spring - but its sub-freezing and frosting inside the shed! Paint will have to wait for the next thaw or an operational stove, whichever comes first.
So next come the decks. We hope.
In lieu of paint, we've tarped the hull over to keep the ply as dry as possible. But before we did, we took advantage of the rare sun for a few pics...
Kitty-corner Over-views
We're generally using the same layout as LUNA, which worked very well for us.
The entire living spaces are open to one another, as much as possible, to allow a roomy feel, long views with big angles out the windows, and a more or less contiguous social space.
The cook is 'part of the party', and there's plenty of room for a sous-chef. One to a few can lounge in the bunk (Anke likes the little bit of social remove, there)... participating while not being in the thick of it. If someone has had enough and wants to turn in, a curtain can screen it off.
The large side windows (much smaller one LUNA) keep the walls from closing in, opening the interior onto the world at large.
From forward, the main cabin divisions are the bunk, salon and galley (under the raised pilot house).
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| Looking aft and port Salon dinette, and galley counter and wetlocker/head on the right |
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| Looking aft and starboard Salon settee, and galley stove and workbench on the left |
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| Looking forward and starboard Galley stove, salon leanbank and s'brd bunk leanbank on the right |
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| Looking forward and port Galley counter, salon dinette, bunk platform and port leanbank on the left |
The Bunk
The bunk itself is 6ft6in long by 6ft wide, with wall to wall storage, under, accessed by large platform/hatches. Port and starboard are two full length leanbank/lockers, and an approximately 2ft square window. The 'blank space' over the leanbanks and ahead of the windows will eventually become bookshelves.
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| Let the Wild Rumpus begin! |
Salon
This word embarrasses me, actually... sounds so yottie! I'd call it a 'living room', but it seems no more so than the others. Now that Anke has (5ft8in) standing headroom, it's not even a 'sitting room'. So, in the interests of tradition and clear communication, 'salon' it shall be.
To port is a near 3ft wide dinette ('table') and seat/lockers which makes down into a generous bunk for one or a snug fit for two.
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| Windows above, the entire length Note the cleats running around the gangway for platform |
Opposite is a 6ft6in settee (see 'salon'... it's really a 'sofa' or 'couch') /locker, with a leanbank as per the bunk. The settee locker lid is hinged to a narrow flap... the lid can be slid inboard with the flap laid flat for a full, 2ft single bunk.
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| Settee... note hinged flap outboard of the seat |
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| Lid slid inboard with flap down to make bunk |
Not shown is a removable sole... normally this lies flat against the inside face of the hull. It can be raised to the cleats lining the gangway, and, with the dinette made down, the entire area becomes a single platform, contiguous with the bunk platform. Great for slumber parties or spread-out projects!
Galley
The galley is the most complex space, and remains that with unfinished business.
To starboard and forward is a woodstove mounted in an alcove formed by an L-shaped woodbox. Wood can be added at the top and removed from the bottom. In winter, it holds about a week's worth of wood (at least for previous stoves with smaller fireboxes).
Starboard and aft is a 4ft x near 3ft workbench, with storage under (yet to be arranged). Anke's herb garden (she's got the green thumbs) will live on the workbench top, but can be moved for sun or convenience.
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| Stove to left with L-woodbox behind and under Workbench to the right, with storage under |
To port and forward is the dedicated galley area, with a 4ft x near 3ft counter, extended by a near 3ft x 2ft flip up counter (see below). Forward will be a double sink, with one basin inboard and the other outboard (these will be built from ply... the designer order a stainless sink too big to fit!). Under will be miscellaneous stowage for big, liquidy stuff (water, fermenting wine, gallons of vinegar and soap, etc.) with cunning storage as needed (the hinged flap is for skinny storage inboard of the sink... toothbrushes?).
Port and mid-galley is under-counter storage with a door closure. The door will have a rack of a dozen quart jars with various dry-goods. Low down is an open bin for large, seldom accessed pots and the like (canning pressure cooker and supplies, hand mill spares, ???... maybe some spuds, too). Over this will be a set of four drawers - two shallow, two deep, and 18in wide x 2ft6in long - to be divvied as seems fit.
Port and aft is the wet locker/head topped by a flip up counter. When horizontal, this extends the galley counter, when flipped vertical, it makes a wall for the 'head' (see Getting aHead for a full description).
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| Galley port side and gangway seen from forward |
The gangway has an 8in raised sole, with room for quart jars under. Aft is the battery box, which also forms the first of three steps (incomplete). It extends from the inboard face of the hull 18in upwards (10in rise over the sole) x 2ft7in wide x 18in long. Should have plenty of room for the battery and electrical panels with room to spare for tools.
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So there you have it... our humble home to be.
Looks like a fantastic job! I appreciate the photos, as it helps my wife visualize what I want to build. Do you know off hand what the overall height and the construction height required? I am looking at modifying my old barn (which has 8' ceilings). I realized that I need to rebuild the garage door wall (was bumped with a tractor one day) and decided it can wait until after I need to remove said boat (repair requires removing 8'high by 12' long wall section anyways) If need be, I can dig out some of the dirt floor for more height, but don't want to dig more than necessary.
ReplyDeleteHi Dennis,
DeleteThanks! Pretty rough, by yacht standards, but we're shooting for a touch above 'outlaw cabin' finish.
The boat stands a skosh higher than 8ft tall, depending on pilothouse hatch and coaming arrangement. That's our 2in bottom + 5ft sides + 2ft PH sides + about 9in of crown + hatch coamings with hatches on top. If the sides are lower (4ft6in to 5ft seem about the practical range) that will drop the total height accordingly.
That's the LUNA style... the STANDARDs run about 6ft8in... higher sides but generally no PH.
Construction height adds (I'd say) a minimum of 4ft over the mid-deck. Can probably get away with 2ft over the pilothouse, since it's all arm's reach from its perimeter. But tight!
In your case, an option might be to finish up to the sheer (don't paint top edges of sheer or bulkheads) and end-decks. Then wait for a weather window, haul it outside and finish the PH deck. The mid-deck could go either way, depending on the season and your tolerance for funky, temporary cover (tarps over a ridge pole, at a minimum). Decks go surprisingly quickly, so it's not a big exposure.
Some barn ceilings can be split down the middle, making two longitudinal lofts running along each side. The center can be planked over (car-deck T&G) for special needs. Then they resemble a traditional boat shop, with space down the middle for plenty of access. We saw a boat built in one of these, where, for building decks and superstructure, the blocked the boat way up so decks were level with the upper floors! Made everything easy.
A last thought... if you build half indoors (fwd face of PH near the outer face of the doorway) with a temporary structure over the back half of the boat, tacked to the building face. That would split advantages (and DISadvantages!), and clear more indoor shop space.
Any way you cut it, we're jealous!
Dave Z
Do you have any more details on the wood box? I see seams under the stove, so assume it is some sort of door. How do you get the wood at the back of the "L" to come forward? Is it sloped or do you use some sort of hook to pull it forward? I assume the entire top of the opens to load? PS, once you get all this information collected into a book or e-book,, I would like to be on the pre-order list.
ReplyDeleteHi Again,
DeleteYou're right, that's a little lid that pulls inboard... it cuts across the top and face for better access past the stove than either alone would afford.
We can mostly reach to near enough the back of the box for bringing wood forward. But we keep our crowbar alongside, and if it's too far for comfort, rake it with that. Wood falls down the L by gravity. Occasionally, it will hang up and we poke it by hand or with the crowbar from top.
The entire top flips up, at this point. On LUNA, we built a drying rack at the forward end, and reduced the flip up portion, accordingly. Will likely do that again, down the road. Stainless steel perforated plate (sold for sifting gravel aggregates in many sized hole patterns) works great for drying trays, BTW. They come in 3 or 4ft x 8ft sheets, which can be cut up as desired.
Hopefully, I'll finish the book next winter... Design and Construction are pretty much finished... this project is finally providing some good documentation for the Case Study.
Dave Z
Another question, is the companonway access offset to accomate the mizzen mast, or is it centered and the mast way off center?
ReplyDeleteHi Dennis,
ReplyDeleteThe companionway is centered and the mizzen offset.
This aligns the companionway with the mid-ships, galley gangway. More importantly, in a beam ends knock-down (full 90degs over), the opening should remain clear of the water. It's port and s'brd edges (one of which will be the lower edge in a knock-down) are inset 3ft from the sides. Side draft will be more than upright draft, but should be well under 3ft (though I haven't calculated for this boat).
The Chinese and Bolger often used offset mizzens, and we tried it out on SLACKTIDE. Not sure if it gives up efficiency, but seems negligible for cruising. It only needs to be far enough over to clear the companion hatch coamings (starting about 1ft6in off centerline). ST's is a little further, as it's integrated with the PH side walls. This boat has a wider PH, so we'll keep it further inbrd.
In this boat, we're going to set the junk (lug) mizzen sail on the inbrd side. Junk sails are naturally offset by half the combined diameter of mast plus boom/yard. By setting inbrd, we reduce the sail's offset.
We once joined a small sailing jaunt with a bunch of Bolger boats and a few others. The one sailing circles around all of us was a Bolger BRICK! Square boat with single mast mounted on one side of the hull!! Sailed great.
When wind is from the mast side (more hull to leeward) the added buoyancy and lever arm of the extra hull resist heeling moment.
From the other side, with REDUCED hull to windward and therefore less resistance to heel, that at first seems iffy. We were at first concerned that we could knock down easier on that tack. But no sign of that, in practice.
My hypothesis is that the extra hull to windward, in this case, acts similar to a proa with windward ama, which in turn is similar to someone hiking out to windward. That additional weight (again on a longer lever arm than half beam provides) counters heeling moment.
The combined result is nearly the same 'feel' on either tack. I'm sure there's a difference, but again, negligible.
Probably more than you were looking for... please ignore any TMI! 8)
Dave Z
A question about your dinette seating, will the cushions supply some lean back, or is it to be left at 90 degrees? If so, how comfertable is it to sit at for longer periods?
ReplyDeleteWe lean the backrests about 3in in 18in. This is about a standard kitchen chair. They're about as comfortable as an average kitchen chair with no cushions, and much more so with.
DeleteOn Luna, an evening of sitting around with guests was quite comfortable (no cushions, but thick carpet seats). If we're lounging around, though (long term reading, say) the bunk is much more comfortable.
I've been trying to figure out a removable 'arm' for the fwd, bunk end of the settee. That would allow us to lounge much more comfortably on it than mere pillows. Not easy, though... might try those fold-out seat/backrest deals... they work great, but are kind of bulky for a single purpose item.
Dave Z
Another question, that actually belongs to a much older post, is about the angle iron (bronze) on the outboard bottom edge of the boat. How do you get it to curve up ends? Is it flexible enough to be forced, or do you need to kerf it?
ReplyDeleteWe plan to kerf it, but that's our second choice. Just the upper blade, and as little as possible... maybe leave 1/4in clear of the lower blade?
DeleteSLACKTIDE's were a bit heavier (long, sad story), which we prefer. A local machine shop bent them perfectly to match the bottom curve from the template we supplied (offcut from the hull plywood).
Caution: Supposedly, they were architectural bronze, which the suppliers say is brittle and can't be curved. Our machinists said no problem and walked the walk. So??
Dave Z
Possible idea for your forward bunk, and one that is questionable for structural strength reasons. For the forward end of the settee, place a pole in a socket at the intersection of the inboard end of the settee and the bunk, with a removable fastener up at the crossbeam (holes in the crossbeam and lashing?) Fasten a net to brace pillows on over to the leanback. Now the questionable one, if the bulkhead that forms the dinette leanback was modified so the leanback was removable, and a similar removable pole was placed on that side as well, then when you want a large flat space the dinette could be dropped, and the leanback removed and the poles removed, giving more square footage for projects. Would that modification weaken the bulkhead too much?
ReplyDelete